
Give it overnight to cure, then you can use 3/4" wood screws to mount the steel box to the wood. I would attach the wood to the concrete using epoxy, with lots of fairing filler added to it to make it more like peanut butter, and then brace it in there while it sets up. This might involve chiseling away some brick/concrete. Use cable clamps such as Halex 20511 to bring Romex into the box.Īs far as physically mounting it in the space, I would probably get a piece of "1-by" wood and trim it so it can fit in the space behind the box (and bring the box up flush). That would be a steel "Handy-Box" like a Raco 650 or 660. And given that the void is of limited size, you probably want the smallest box available. You don't want an arcing fault on the outlet's connections able to directly set wood on fire. From flush-mounted, hollow wall and cast concrete junction boxes to surface-mounted, cable. I know that requirement seems a little dumb when the void behind it is pure concrete, but think about wood frame construction. ABB offers a wide range of high-quality installation boxes. You can't have a receptacle flopping around in the wall without an enclosure to shield the wires. Beyond slapping glue or tape on this to hold it in place (which I don't recommend), you need landlord/electrician to do the job. You might get away with a very simple switch or receptacle replacement, but you already know this isn't simple. In most places you also need to be a licensed electrician to work in a multi-unit building. Wire splicing is a standard electrical procedure that allows you to extend wires and add devices, while often reducing drywall demolition and repair. You can't do electrical work without permission of the landlord. That will look "industrial" but is perfectly normal in basements, workshops, garages, etc. Or, provided there are a few inches to spare of wire/cable, you may be able to mount a metal box on the surface of the concrete.

It may be possible to retrofit a box to fit "just right" and attach properly. Open up the box so we can see what you've got.

You can generally drill concrete pretty easily with a hammer drill. entry shall be as shown in Figure 5 and Figure 6 on for splice boxes. The wall is solid concrete, so I can't drill sizes of non-concrete and precast concrete enclosures used in PG&E electric.
